Guangzhou

Гуанчжоу

Зимой 2014 года мы совершили путешествие по Юго-Восточной Азии, куда стартовали из Гуанчжоу, прилетев в Китай задешево авиакомпанией China Southern из Москвы.

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Официально полет беспересадочный, на деле происходит пересадка в Урумчи, где пассажиры проходят строгий паспортный и таможенный контроль – даже воду отбирают. Пересадка достаточно длинная, некоторые китайцы даже успели перекусить Дошираком в аэропорту: видимо, соскучились.
В Гуанчжоу мы сориентировались достаточно быстро: метро современное и понятное, с надписями на английском.
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Остановились у каучсерферов и три дня гуляли, днем одни, а вечером с ними. Каучсерфинг, помимо прочего, мы любим за то, что новые друзья всегда знают, где вкусно поесть в их городе, в отличие, например, от работников отеля. Вот и в Гуанчжоу мы выбрались во вкусный ресторанчик, который сами бы никогда не нашли. Правда, без куриных голов в блюде все же не обошлось.
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А еще с новыми друзьями мы попали в гости на хот пот – традиционное китайское блюдо. В одной большой кастрюле варится бульон, и гости опускают туда те ингредиенты, которые хотят, варят и вылавливают. Хот пот может быть рыбный, куриный или мясной, в этот раз мы попробовали куриный, опять же не без цыплячьих голов.
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Вообще еда в Гуанчжоу нас все время удивляла. Даже при полной всеядности Насти китайский популярный напиток из бобов так и не пришелся нам по вкусу (пришлось вылить), а многие продукты и вовсе смущали всем своим видом.
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Теперь о культурной части. Карту Гуанчжоу мы попросили в большом и дорогом отеле, который встретился нам по пути. В городе достаточно достопримечательностей на несколько дней. Начали мы с Храма Шести Баньяновых Деревьев (87, LiuRong Road, Yuexiu District Guanghzou), внутри которого расположена 55-метровая пагода. Храм, построенный в 537 году, получил свое поэтическое название от шести баньяновых деревьев, которые действительно росли во дворе. Сегодня здесь размещается Буддистская Ассоциация Гуанчжоу, а пагоде находится 1000 статуй Будды.
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Потом мы отправились в Лю Хуа Ху , большой и спокойный парк в которым можно погулять, покататься на катамаранах, насладиться воздухом и архитектурой и посмотреть как развлекаются местные.
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Сюда приезжают фотографироваться молодожены и приходят репетировать танцевальные выступления:
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Если честно, прогулки по парку были такими умиротворяющими, а джетлаг таким невыносимым, что мы не выдержали и прилегли отдохнуть на травку. Спали мы, похоже, не долго: нас вежливо растолкали полицейские – не положено.
Также мы побывали в академии семьи Чэн (музее народного творчества, 34, En Long Li, Zhong Shan Liu Road ), где раньше обучали разным наукам и собирались для восхваления предков. В 1958 году храм отремонтировали и превратили в музей. На территории музея много двориков, зданий, статуй и других предметов искусства, в том числе керамики и бонсай.
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Прогулялись у мемориала Сунь Ятсену (259, Dong Feng Zhong Road,Yuexiu District) – революционера, первого чрезвычайного президента Китайской Республики, посмертно получившего титул «отца нации», своего рода китайского Карла Маркса. Китайцы, с которыми мы общались, также называли его учителем Мао. Здание площадью 60 тысяч кв. м. было построено на месте дома, где Сунь Ятсен работал.
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Сходили в мавзолей короля Намвьета, правившего во II веке до нашей эры, гробницу которого обнаружили в Гуанчжоу лишь в 1983 году. Если честно, ничего примечательного помимо общего ощущения «какое все древнее».
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Прогулялись по набережной Жемчужной реки.
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В Гуанчжоу интересно шоппиться, чего тут только нет: чаи, еда, даже отдельный рынок всяких гадов, ну и, конечно, китайские шмотки.
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Помимо торговых центров, здесь есть два огромных рынка, представляющих собой пешеходные улицы – более простой и дешевый Шанхайский (Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street) и навороченный Пекинский (Beijing Road Shopping District). На обоих рынках можно также поесть.
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Мы планировали посмотреть больше Гуанчжоу на обратном пути, перед вылетом домой, но попали на Китайский Новый год, когда все было закрыто. После Гуанчжоу мы отправились в Шэньчжэнь, чтобы оттуда вылететь в Куала Лумпур.

5 комментариев

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    Reply

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