Русская версия As we have already mentioned the transport infrastructure in Pamir is not really developed. Perhaps, the most complicated section which almost every tourist has to cover (unless he or she travels by plane from and to Dushanbe and avoids seeing Kyrgyzstan) is a road from Pamir to Osh (Kyrgyzstan). To cover it you will have to go through Murgab – the district capital of the highest altitude out of all post-Soviet countries; at the same time this is the capital of the largest yet the least densely populated district of Tajikistan. If you manage to find transport to cover this way, you will not regret: the road is really wild and different from what you see in central Pamir.
Vrang – Langar (Vakhan Valley, Pamir, Tajikistan): The Buddhist Stupa, Petroglyphs, and Amazing Pamir Hospitality
Русская версия After several days travelling in Pamir, this time we only had to cover 15-20 kilometres from Tuggoz to Vrang: a small distance compared to the previous ones and taking into account the previous difficulties with transport.
Hitch-hiking at Pamir
We started to walk, yet, trying to hitchhike. The first driver offered the price of 80 somonis (10 dollars), the second – 150 somonis, and we were very much surprised: how the people giving away their last food for the guests ask for such large sums from the fellow travellers. After all, giving a ride in the direction you are driving to is easier that providing with food and shelter. Two other cars were full, and when we only had 8 kilometres left to walk, a 4WD stopped to offer a free ride to us. To our surprise, he turned out to be a Dushanbe taxi driver, driving us for free. Moreover, it turned out that he was a nephew of the cousin of the physical education teacher who had treated as with tea several hours before in Yamchun. The driver drove us to his aunt’s house where we were offered a lodging.
Русская версия Having spent a day and a night in Tuggoz, in the morning we started looking for the transport to Yamchun fortress and Bibi Fatima hot springs, encountered the inadequate prices for getting there by local cars and decided to go on foot. It was 7-8 kilometer walk up to the mountains, the only trouble was the hot sun, but we were not afraid of difficulties.
Русская версия After visiting the capital of Pamir Khorog, we decided to see mountain villages and different people inhabiting them and to move towards Kirgyzstan little by little. For this, we had to drive through the picturesque Wakhan Valley stretching along the Panj river and dividing Tajikistan from Afghanistan. This place and its people are unique. They mostly speak Wakhan language (also widespread in Pakistan, Afghanistan, and China), but also know Russia and Tajik. In addition, there are many other minor languages here: not far from Ishkashim there is a village of Ryn, the only place in the world where Ryn language is spoken.
In the early morning we took a collective taxi from Khorog to Ishkashim.
Русская версия Let’s imagine that having some basic idea about Pamir and the permit to enter it, you found the way to get there too. In this case, you will start your acquaintance with this part of Tajikistan with the region capital, Khorog. Most probably you will reach it late in the evening and discover unusual landscapes only in the morning… and many tourists too.
Русская версия This post is not only about how to get the permit to visit Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region or Pamir in Tajikistan and to reach this isolated place. This time we will also tell about the scariest day in our life, which was perhaps worth living through to get to amazing Pamir.